THIS IS ATHENS
This is Athens, the seat of Athens County, Ohio.
So is this…
(The Hocking River, as seen from the bike path)
…and this.
(Athens City Hall)
I was born here in
1981 and spent the next 18 years of my life enjoying all that Athens—by which I
mean the town and county both—has to offer. I left town for college in the
autumn of 1999 and have spent my time since then living in and visiting a
number of other places. However, despite my growing experience with life
outside of Ohio, I find that I still think of Athens as the gold standard
against which to judge other towns. I even refer to it as “home” sometimes,
regardless of the address listed on my passport.
Here are a few of the
reasons why.
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FOOD
One path to the heart
is through the stomach, and Athens has many eateries whose atmospheres and
delicacies are unique; although I have tried to recreate certain dishes in my
own kitchen, or locate replacements at other restaurants in other towns, there
are some culinary delights that can only be found in Athens itself.
(Good Fella’s pizza—criminally good)
When I was in high
school, my friends and I would visit Good Fella’s, which not only had
addictively good pizza, but also sold it for as little as a mere $1 a slice. I
always used to request a corner slice so I could have maximal crust. The best
place to enjoy it was on the bench outside the door, where we could sit and
people-watch while eating.
(A bag full of taste—a Larry’s Dawg House footlong
with ketchup only, just the way I like it)
Larry’s Dawg House is
another Athens institution—one that I especially appreciate now that I live
abroad in a country that just doesn’t do hot dogs. Nothing says summer like a
milkshake and a footlong from Larry’s. During my last visit home, I could hear
the sounds of a Little League baseball game wafting on the summer breeze as I
ate my hot dog for dinner. You can’t get much more American than that.
Of course, Athens has
more to offer than just junk food (though junk food is so hard to reproduce
that it is what I always crave the most when I am out of town). I still
remember the pre-Prom meals I had at the Ohio University Inn (at what is now called Cutler’s
Restaurant) and Lui Lui, along with the New Year’s Eve celebrations at Zoe’s,
Latitude 39, and (the now-closed) Blue Alligator. During my husband’s first
visit to Athens, he and my parents got acquainted over a gourmet meal at
Stephen’s; when my in-laws came to town to meet my family, my husband and I
took them to Salaam in order to break the ice—and the pita; later that evening
I got to know my siblings-in-law better at Jackie O’s Pub and Brewery. It’s
amazing how many delicious options there are given the size of the town.
When I’d rather prepare my own food, I like to
swing by Athens’ famous farmer’s
market to see what fresh local delicacies are available. Perhaps my
family’s favorite purchase, and our most common, is a bag of Gillogly
Orchard’s winesap apples, which have no equal for mixing tartness and
sweetness all in one perfect fruit. Other essential local products include Frog Ranch salsa, Herbal Sage tea, Integration Acres pawpaw
jam, and Crumbs Bakery crackers. The
less fragile of these were often included in CARE packages that my parents
mailed me during my college years, and my family still stock their cabinets
with these treats when I come to visit.
(Graffiti in the first stall of the women’s restroom
in Casa Nueva)
Also at the farmer’s
market, as well as in uptown Athens, is
Casa
Nueva—which, as far as I’m concerned, is the jewel in Athens’ culinary
crown. Judging by the graffiti in one of Casa’s bathroom stalls, at least one
other person shares this opinion. This is the restaurant where my parents had
their first date and where they still celebrate the end of nearly every working
week; it is where my husband and I held the unofficial pre-party for our
wedding celebration, and where my friends and I rendezvous whenever we are in
town. Usually at least once a week I see a Facebook post from an Athens native
who is yearning for a Casa burrito or quesadilla; personally, I always crave
their jasmine rice salad with sesame soy dressing. Perfection.
CULTURE
(One of the practice rooms on the top floor of Glidden
Hall)
Thanks in large part
to the presence of Ohio University, Athens is never short on culture, including
music, dance, theater, literature, and art galleries. As a little girl I was a
frequent visitor to Glidden Hall, where I took piano lessons and sang for many
years in the children’s choir.
I also accompanied my parents to “Mem-Aud”—now
more lengthily known as the Templeton-Blackburn Alumni Memorial Auditorium—to
take in the diverse shows that cumulatively made up the Performing Arts series. In
recent years, I have made special trips home in order to see Mem-Aud
performances by some of my favorite musicians, including Nickel Creek, the
Avett Brothers, Feist, and Kathleen Edwards; one of my annual holiday visits
overlapped with a talk by Jeff Corwin, and I even got to help my dad interview
author David Quammen prior to his lecture on Charles Darwin. Having lived in a
number of other college towns since leaving Ohio, I can verify that Athens’
quantity and diversity of performers is unusually impressive; I hope the OU
students appreciate all that entertainment and enlightenment right on their
front doorstep.
(The Dairy Barn—once a home for cows and now a home
for art)
My family also spent
quite a bit of time at the
Dairy Barn Arts
Center, where we not only enjoyed the art on display, but also volunteered
at the front desk. Even before I began to appreciate art on an intellectual
level, I enjoyed browsing the gallery during annual shows such as Quilt
National. Author Peter Catalanotto once visited the Dairy Barn to give a
reading of his children’s book
Dylan’s
Day Out, followed by a brief drawing workshop. If I recall correctly, my
artistic efforts were abysmal, but I can still remember the thrill of being so
close to a real, live Famous Person. As a child I also adored the Dairy Barn’s
cow-themed paraphernalia; I proudly wore my hoof socks and cow shorts until
they were threadbare.
(The colorful boxcars of the Hocking Valley Scenic
Railway)
The
Hocking Valley Scenic Railway is a boon to
those who enjoy the culture of the past as well as the culture of the present.
During elementary school, I once had a chance to ride the railroad and see
historic reenactments at Robbins Crossing, the beautiful mid-19
th-century
pioneer log village assembled on the
Hocking
College campus (I’ve also visited the village at Halloween, when it receives
an eerie makeover). For those who would like to accompany their history lesson
with some athletic activity, there is always the option of traveling to Robbins
Crossing via the beautiful and impressively long (17.9 miles)
Hockhocking Adena Bikeway—a
route I have traveled countless times over the years, both on foot and on
wheels; during the early summer, travelers can take a page out of my book and
munch on some of the sweet wild raspberries lining large sections of the path.
Nelsonville is also
home to
Stuart’s Opera House, an
integral part of the local music scene. During a visit to Athens a few years
ago, my parents generously bought me a ticket to Stuart’s see the unique Luminescent
Orchestrii, a New York band fronted by Athens native Sxip Shirey. Also
deserving a mention is the
Fur Peace
Ranch; although it is located in Meigs County rather than Athens, this is a
cultural resource that is regularly visited by many Athenians. I am lucky
enough to have seen Mary Gauthier perform there several years ago, and I still
proudly sport the FPR T-shirt I purchased that night.
(Recording and broadcasting equipment in WOUB’s Studio
A)
Perhaps my favorite
cultural location in Athens is actually not so much a “destination” as a
starting point: the offices of
WOUB radio, part
of Ohio University’s Scripps College of Communication. To others, WOUB is an
essential source of news. To me, it is also the place where I spent many hours
as a little girl, visiting my father in the newsroom. I used to find the
studios fascinating and thought it was delightful to sit and erase old
newscasts from used tapes (yes, it was so long ago that things weren’t done
electronically, and yes, I was easy to amuse). Now that I’m older, I can also
enjoy the content being broadcast over WOUB’s airwaves—everything from new and
unusual music to important updates on local issues to nationally broadcasted
NPR shows.
SHOPPING
Athens has always
been a fun place to shop, offering products ranging from clothes and jewelry to
locally made crafts. In fact, there are so many potential purchases that I
usually travel with an extra suitcase in order to accommodate all my
indulgences.
(White’s Mill, founded in 1809)
One retail landmark
is
White’s
Mill, a 203-year-old entity that currently houses a lawn and garden (and so
much more) shop. I have bought more gifts at White’s Mill than I can even
count. My previous purchases include bluebird boxes (for my grandparents),
Ohio-made pottery and baskets (for my mother and in-laws), bird food (for many
different people), and Christmas tree ornaments (for myself!). However, the
thing I buy most often is jewelry—from the Mill’s extensive selection of
(mostly) silver pieces made by Native American artists. My mother and I have
started a tradition of visiting White’s Mill each time I’m in town and adding
to our already impressive collections.
Another important
source of unique and elegant gifts is Court Street Collections, which as a
little girl I knew to be the place to
find something perfect for my mother. Years later, I realized that this shop
also contains many things that suit my
tastes; a piece of their stained glass currently hangs in my home across The
Pond. Other favorite shopping haunts include Artifacts Gallery and Mountain
Laurel (or, as I still think of it, Mountain Leather—where, indeed, I bought
many leather goods over the years).
(Haffa’s Records on West Union Street, Athens)
I have always had a
weakness for music, and my addiction has been fed over the years by
Haffa’s Records, reportedly
Ohio’s last independent record store. In addition to selling brand new albums,
Haffa’s also has an extensive collection of used music, including vinyl. I have
frequently taken advantage of the store’s willingness to buy used CDs, or—more
importantly for me—offer in-store credit for them. On many occasions I have
entered the store with a large stack of old CDs, only to leave with an even
bigger stack of new ones.
(The Rocky Outlet, and the many faces of its ungulate
mascot, in Nelsonville)
A more recent
addition to the Athens County shopping scene is Nelsonville’s
Rocky Outlet. This store opened while I
was away at college, but my parents made sure I was introduced to its wonders
the next time I visited home. Although it does feature a wide variety Rocky
brand boots, as you might expect given the name of the establishment, you can find
a huge variety of other things here, as well; it’s rather like an old-fashioned
general store. I’ve bought jewelry, sandals, clothing, picture frames,
Christmas ornaments, coffee cups, spice rubs, and handmade candies. Part of the
fun is not knowing exactly what will be stocked, and so getting the chance to
stumble across unexpected must-haves (such as my beloved pink satin-lined black
velvet jacket, bought on sale for a mere $7.50 a couple years ago).
(Passion Works flowers in the shop on West State
Street)
Of all the unique
shops that Athens has to offer, perhaps the most heartwarming is the
Passion Works Studio. On sale there are
interesting and unusual pieces generated by “collaborations between artists
with and without developmental disabilities.” Money raised through the sale of
these products is used to help fund arts programs and to provide opportunities
for people with disabilities—thus furthering the studio’s goal of “inspir[ing]
and liberat[ing] the human spirit through the arts.” One of the shop’s most
recognizable products is recycled metal flowers, which can be found decorating
many facilities in the Athens area—and at least one house in Maryland, thanks
to a gift to my in-laws from my husband and me.
THE OUTDOORS
(Looking back at The Ridges hiking path from Radar
Hill)
In my humble opinion,
there is no place more beautiful than Appalachia, and many of Athens’ aesthetic
charms stem from the fact that the county is nestled in the rolling foothills
of this lovely mountain range. Shortly before I left for college, I stood atop
Radar Hill (in the area of Athens now known as The Ridges) and looked out at
the hills stretching away into the distance; I knew then that no matter how
many picturesque landscapes I might see in the future, that vista would always
be one of my favorites. In fact, it is such
a favorite that I make sure to see it at least once every time I visit
town.
(The old Beacon School building at The Ridges)
I have had a soft
spot for The Ridges since my dad first took me there when I was in elementary
school. I love not only the woods and grasslands, but also the former mental
health center’s dilapidated old buildings at the base of the walking trail. I
was even lucky enough to tour one of these shortly before Ohio University began
its remodeling process; the interior was both eerie and intriguing—the perfect
setting for a horror film or psychological thriller.
It wasn’t until I was
in college that I learned to fully appreciate the natural wonders of The Ridges—its
field sparrows and indigo buntings, eastern bluebirds and American kestrels. I
once took my mom and one of her students on a
bird
walk there in order to share my ornithological enthusiasm; during my last
visit to Athens, my parents accompanied me as I went on an expedition to find
and photograph wildflowers. The area seems especially lovely now that I spend
the bulk of my year in a place that is cooler, rainier, and much less lush.
(Multiple views of Strouds Run State Park)
When I was younger, I
found relief from the sunniest and hottest summer days at
Strouds
Run State Park. As much as I loved swimming in the lake, I was always disconcerted
by my frequent physical encounters with aquatic wildlife—I still have vivid
memories of shrieking after brushing up against harmless little fish. I also
remember how my best friend and I dared each other to swim out to the buoys
that marked the boundaries of the swimming area; both of us made it but then
high-tailed it back to shore after panicking about how deep (we thought) the
water was.
(Canada geese on the Hocking River at sunset)
For those who would
rather see the water from afar, there are many places to stroll along, fish in,
or boat upon the Hocking River. It is especially picturesque at sunset, when it
reflects the pinks and purples of the darkening sky. I particularly like the
view along the stretch between White’s Mill and Ohio University’s iconic
Convocation Center; in the summer, you can enjoy the view there while being
serenaded by the resident red-winged blackbirds and song sparrows.
(The Athens Angel)
Several years ago,
Athens was listed as one of the most
haunted
places in the world. Although I am unconvinced that this distinction is
deserved, I
will acknowledge that the
county contains many cemeteries—some of which are, contrary to all the ghost stories, actually quite peaceful and pleasant. One of these,
on Athens’ West State Street, contains a monument that I have always found
arresting—an angel statue dedicated to the unknown dead. I usually refer to her
as the Athens Angel and have found it interesting to see her demeanor change
over the years as she has been increasingly covered by moss and lichens.
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(One of the Athens Block bricks that
you find all over town, from Court Street to The Ridges to the Dairy Barn
parking lot)
It would be easy to extend my list of Athens
landmarks, especially if I included not just favorite spots but also sites
where I set personal benchmarks—for example, the parking lot where I learned to
drive, or the Ohio University dorms that I cleaned during my first ever paid
job. After you’ve spent nearly two decades in Athens, there is a point of interest
around nearly every corner; it is a place full of memories—and, for newcomers,
a place of memories waiting to be made.
My parents would probably both
agree with that sentiment, having arrived in Athens about forty years ago
unaware that they would meet each other, get married, start a family, and put
down deep roots in the county. Theirs is only one of many Athens love stories,
though of course it is my favorite because it is the reason I am here today.
Mine is another love story, but of a different variety: The story of a
resident’s affection for her home, persisting even after she has left it to
live somewhere else. Athens is an eclectic and versatile place, so there are
probably as many love stories in town as there are people. For those that haven’t
been already, Athens is worth a visit. What kind of story is waiting there for
you?
(Clouds over Athens at sunset)
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All photos by Caitlin Kight. Thanks to everyone who allowed me to take photos on their premises.
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